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A FEW GROUND RULES
Let’s presuppose a couple of things:
1. The boat you want is an elderly wooden sailing boat and;
2. You fall to the last category, about 9 on the scale.
My advice is ‘Spend money on a poll if you think you need to and spend money on a survey anyway.’
A proficient prediction is just that. You’re paying a person with encounters and knowledge (the key word) to do somewhat you can’t. You’ve got to pay for that.
BRING A LEARNED FRIEND
What if you in reality can’t afford a survey or that it’s just not practical? The next step is to shoot along someone who performs know somewhat right about the boat you seek to buy. A yachtie friend or club member who owns a similar boat, for example. This reduces the chances of you (a novice) attaining two and a half heaps of soggy ply and twelve kilos of rusty nails masquerading as ‘The buy of the Century’.
ARM YOURSELF BEFORE YOU GO
There’s a bit that you can do to save yourself a wasted journey. A few questions on the phone might save you cycle and money. Get a pencil, give out a list.
1. What was the date of the last legendary survey/insurance certificate? Beware of paper certificates… In this day of computers documents can be convincingly forged…Ask to see the originals wherever possible…Don’t trust photocopies. Surveys and insurance documents hold a limited life-span.
2. Is the boat out of the water? If so, where?…How for a while has she been heard out? A wooden hull can dry out rapidly in a week or two and the planks will shrink leaving huge cracks. Be careful of a boat that has been out for months unprotected based on what i read in the sun.
3. Can the seller prove the boat is his to sell? If not, why not? A broker has a responsibility to guarantee title on all boats the present he sells. It are required to be in a safe, seaworthy condition unless otherwise specified. Remember, It could be stolen. Check with your local Department of Consumer Affairs approximately ‘Revs for Boats’…they can tell you, for a pithy fee, if there are outstanding debts and additionally the Police suffer lists of missing and stolen craft.
4. Try to have a tiny knowledge of the kind of building the boat has. Buy, beg or borrow any books that can help you in your search… there are dozens of them. Bone up on the engine, gearbox and other gear which it may have on board.
5. Bring a torch.. handy for people dark corners!
6. Have a good idea what you will and won’t pay.
WHEN YOU GET THERE
If things aren’t as expected or you get evasive or really smooth answers about things which are of course not right, ask a few pointed questions (politely, of course)…..Why is there concrete poured in the bilges?…….Why is the battery flat? If you get no joy, maybe currently is the time to point out that you have other boats to see.
Oh yes, an additional delicate subject. When searching for rot, don’t embark on hacking prohibative lumps out of the paintwork with a pointy knife. The boat is not your property and you’ve not kept on invited on board to vandalise his boat at your leisure. You are likely to get chucked in the side and earn a damn great bill for repairs and damages… quite right too!!
Don’t be too critical! People can be sensitive about their boat (even if it isn’t up to much) Most wooden boats are not up to Lloyds A1 standards…nothing kills a deal more effectively than aggressive tyre kickers deliberately rubbishing the boat to knock down the price…Be subtle. A miniature compromise am able to get you a fair deal.
A FEW OTHER POINTS
If the boat is in the water, you won’t be able to see the hull. That is rather important. If you want to inspect it you’ll have to pay for slipping fees unless otherwise agreed. If so, get it in writing!
The old argument rages on about ‘glassing’ or ‘sheathing’ wooden hulls. Everyone is entitled to such a own opinion. I don’t believe in it unless it’s constructed like that based on what i read in new! Now, I’ll inform you why.
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Traditional wooden boats weren’t built to be glassed over. The way they are built dictates the way properties move or ‘work’, especially sailing vessels. Glass ‘em during and different strains work the boat and eventually the glass breaks away partly from the hull….next thing, rain or sea water seeps inside and the boat has a death sentence on it for there on in.
A FINAL THOUGHT
If you agree the purpose of this article is to frighten you, you’re right. Money is hard to appear by but there are folks who’ll take it off you any way they can. What I’ve written is to keep you, the boat buying punter, strurdily in purchase of your hard earned money until you are convinced the present you are doing the right thing. After all, how a good amount of boats will you buy in a lifetime? You can’t really be an expert, especially on wooden boats. All is not doom and gloom, there are a desired a large amount of honest boats and people out there and to buy a bargain for the ideally price can be a satisfying experience! Happy Hunting!
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A CHECK LIST FOR A WOODEN YACHT
1. PLANKING
Cracks, splits and sprung butt ends hint that loose fastenings. Check for rot gently utilizing a miniature knife or screwdriver, especially at the waterline.
2.SEAMS
Check for rotted caulking and for security. Re-caulking may be required.
3.PAINTWORK
Excess weed suggests poor maintenance as does smelly, diesel filled bilges inside the hull. Lack of antifoul can allow damage by marine growths especially ship-worm. Check in detail for signs of worm. They get in through pinholes, chew and chew until the planks become powder! If worm is suspected, get professional help!
4.PATCHES OR TINGLES
Copper, fibreglass or wood, they come in all shapes and sizes. They are there for a reason and your job is to purchase out why. They are temporary bodges really, how are they hiding? Plenty of patches mean loads of room for discussion concerning a reduced price, there will be plenty of leg work to do, for sure.
5. PROPELLER AND SHAFT /BEARINGS
Check these all for electrolysis, splits and damage. Check the bearing for play by lifting it up and down. If water drips out consequently it’s becoming in, definitely. Is the shaft worn to excess or continuing to bent?
6. ANODES
How many? How good? If they are badly corroded properties are working at the job. Have a good look on all other metal surfaces to see if a fantastic corrosion job has carried on done on them too.
7. HULL FITTINGS
Metal or plastic, assess them for security. Check filters for effectiveness, metal ones for corrosion. A favourite is to use household brass fitting to save money…. they fall apart as they dezinctify.
8. STEM, TRANSOM AND RUDDER
All of these cog parts provided be strong, guaranteed and in magnificent condition. Check for worn pintles or rudder bearings and ensure they are not loose.
9. RIGGING
Check all rigging wire for rust, wear and worn fittings. Check ropes and sheets for mould and blocks for security and wear.
10. SAILS
Sails cost a fortune! Unfurl and check for strained or ripped seams, tears, mildew and over&wshyp;arching aging. Canvas can rot and Nylon becomes brittle amongst age and sunlight.
11. MASTS AND SPARS
Inspect in detail for splits (shakes) and rot behind fittings.
12. DECKS
Decks can leak and are often a major job. Check them out on a rainy day, if not hose ‘em down!! Look for loose fittings, cracked ‘paying’ in between the planks and damage around strained or loose deck fittings.
13. BELOW DECKS
Look for tell tale stains, watermarks and poor paint work. Has she been under?… You’ll see the ‘tidemark’ a good deal of at which around the floor line if she has. Mildew, wet and dry rot and peeling woodwork can be traced with eyes and nose….
14. ENGINE
A tricky subject, too much for this article, but if in any doubt, bring a marine mechanic not a car one. Watch the owner's face when you casually indicate an oil analysis check
15. ELECTRICKERY
Once again, a subject for the experts. However, signs of inquiries can be cracked, burned and brittle wiring. Loose and floppy wiring shows lack of maintenance.
A vast and never ending subject, the care of wooden boats can fill volumes and takes many years of experience to learn. However, still the most knowledgeable amid us would be the original to imagine the golden rule is to: GET A SURVEY DONE!! As you will be paying, get a surveyor of your choice, don’t get talked to having ‘someone I can identify who’s really good,’ but then again that’s an additional story!
Remember, with the blind leading the blind someone’s going to moderate in the ditch…..Will it be you?
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